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Mounting guide updated

2010-10-29 04:21:49 (5688 views)

Includes new analysis of metallic CB type devices, new pictures.

DreamLover 2000 Compatibility Notes and Mounting Guide

Comments

By sub3604 at 2010-10-29 06:49:19 Reply
Much better It is really comming on now oh yeah you made a post yesterday entitled Update: - cb6000 issue solv... (by dreamloverlabs) It is in the left hand margin but when clicked on, it doesn't come up it just comes up approve topic I believe you need to do this so we can see the post.
By dreamloverlabs at 2010-10-29 07:01:53 Reply
Fixed, thanks.
By Aggie at 2010-10-30 08:08:54 Reply
Questions about cable termination, 'arousal inducer' electrode design and some suggestions:

1. How will the cables be terminated on the unit as delivered 'boxed'? Will they be provided unterminated, but overlength so the purchaser can make their own custom fit to the Chastity Device they own with terminations they fit themselves, provided loose, or are terminated overlength one-size-fits-all cables intended? Both options are tricky for different reasons - the classic cut it too short on the cables, bodged termination fitting, and if long terminated cabled provided, the increased chance of snagging and looking untidy.

Suggestion: fit cables with female in-line connectors and a variety of lengths of cable with properly fitted terminations at one end and a male in-line connector at the other. The in-line connectors could be made tamper-evident with tape seals.

2. Same sort of problem with the 'arousal inducer' - I guess it must have a one-size-fits-all cable length, which is a bit of a liability. Looks a lumpy thing anyway - where is it supposed to go - inside the tube? With an electrode in there as well, you could be running out of space!

Suggestion: Encapsulate the 'arousal inducer' in electrically-conductive rubber and provide it with a threaded bolt-hole so one component does 2 things.

3. I'm not at all sure I like the electrode designs shown. With edges, they will rub and bruise. If the chastity device is only being fitted for a few hours, thats probably OK for a game, but not months of continuous wear. Suggesting using foam or electrical tape which are unhygenic and not sufficiently water resistant respectively as part of the electrode design seems to let down the whole concept like fitting wooden wheels to a Porche would!

Suggestions:

a. Provide electrically-conductive silver paint and some die-cut masks so the contact patches may be created on the areas of the tube needed, covering and connecting to the fitted termination - a bolt and smooth bevelled washer.

b. Provide electrically conductive rubber pads that may be stuck with marine superglue in the correct places, the termination held against them with a bolt and smooth bevelled washer through a drilling in the tube.
By dreamloverlabs at 2010-10-31 03:38:53 Reply
Cables will have standard length and the ring terminals. It's tricky to waterproof cables, adding the terminals is not entirely straightforward. Water travels right through cables once it gets to the core...
By dreamloverlabs at 2010-10-31 03:54:08 Reply
Q2: There is sufficient space inside the cage - tested. Besides the motor must be somewhat tight to feel the vibration, the tighter the better.

Q3: Those electrodes don't have rough edges, perhaps the pictures are misleading. They don't look too high tech but surprisingly they're the best solution tried so far.

- Electrical tape: not recommended due to materials used (copper, aluminum), and also, if the surface isn't totally smooth it gets painful after a while (and it's pretty much impossible to get it to stay smooth on a curved body). To make things worse, there is no way to take it off polycarbonate plastic once it's on. Don't even try it - in our case it totally trashed the surface of the cage.

- Conductive pads: they were tried and were not workable. First, there isn't sufficient contact area from the real wires or electronics to the rubber. Solving that will be tough with the device size we're working with. Second, the surface is not smooth, it feels dusty when you put in enough silver to lower resistance. So contact with the penis is also problematic. When you put in enough silver powder the rubber also breaks really easily. So altogether it didn't seem a workable solution...

- Foam: it's made of polyurethane so it won't absorb liquids like an ordinary sponge. It's placed below the cage so if the penis is positioned correctly inside it (glans beyond the inner electrode) it won't even get wet when going to the bathroom.

Do keep suggesting if you have other ideas, we may not have tried them... BTW are you joining the Committee?
By virginiaandbill at 2010-11-04 20:43:07 Reply
When you say "(please make the hole 1 - 1.5cm higher than shown in the video for best results!) " which way is higher? Does that mean away from the end that the tip of the penis will be at when being worn?
By dreamloverlabs at 2010-11-04 21:06:17 Reply
1-1.5cm farther away from the tip
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